Conchas
Day 379. The concha is a bread that announces its flavor before it is eaten. The sugar paste on top is scored in a pattern before baking. It cracks along those lines in the oven. I have learned to distinguish vanilla from chocolate by color alone. Brown is not always chocolate. But in this case, it is.
§ PROCEDURE
- Activate the yeast: in a small bowl, combine 11 g active dry yeast, 3 tbsp of the flour (taken from the 500 g), 1 tbsp of the sugar (taken from the 150 g), and all 180 ml of lukewarm milk. Stir briefly and leave for about 20 minutes until the mixture turns foamy. If it does not foam, the yeast is no longer active — start again with a fresh packet.
- In a large bowl, whisk together the remaining flour, remaining sugar, and ¾ tsp kosher salt until evenly mixed.
- Pour the foamy yeast mixture into the stand mixer bowl. Add 2 eggs, 1 egg yolk, and 2 tsp vanilla extract. Mix on low speed briefly to combine. Scrape down the edges with a spatula as needed.
- Add the dry flour and sugar mixture to the mixer. Mix on low until the dough comes together and no dry flour remains.
- With the mixer running on low-medium speed, add 140 g of room-temperature butter one tablespoon at a time, waiting for each addition to fully incorporate before adding the next.
- Increase to medium-high speed and mix for about 10 minutes until the dough is smooth, elastic, and slightly tacky. To test readiness, stretch a small piece of dough between your fingers — it should stretch thin enough to see light through without tearing. This is the window test. If it tears, keep mixing and test again in 2 minutes.
- Shape the dough into a ball. Lightly oil the surface, place it in a bowl, cover tightly with plastic wrap, and let it rise at room temperature for 1–2 hours until roughly doubled in size.
- While the dough rises, make the concha covers: in a bowl, mix together 150 g butter, 150 g powdered sugar, and 150 g flour until a smooth, pliable paste forms. Divide in half. To one half, add ½ tsp vanilla and mix well. To the other half, add 1 tsp cocoa powder and mix — if the paste becomes dry or crumbly, add a few drops of milk until it is smooth again. From each half, form 8 equal balls (or fewer if making larger conchas). Keep them covered until ready to use.
- Turn the risen dough onto a lightly floured surface. Divide into 16 equal portions. Working one at a time, flatten a portion into a small disc with your hands. Optional Nutella filling: place about 2 tbsp of Nutella in the center, then gather the edges of the dough up and around the filling, pinching them firmly to seal with no gaps. Roll the filled ball gently between your palms to smooth the surface, seam-side down. For unfilled conchas, simply ball each portion tightly. Place on parchment-lined baking sheets with a few inches of space between each, then gently press each ball slightly flat and brush a little oil on top to prevent drying.
- To apply the covers: place one cover ball between two sheets of plastic wrap. Press flat using a tortilla press or a heavy plate until it forms a disc roughly the size of the concha. Peel away the plastic and drape the disc over a dough ball, pressing lightly so it adheres. Use a concha cutter to score the pattern into the cover, pressing firmly enough to cut through but not into the bread dough. Repeat for all conchas.
- Let the shaped conchas rise uncovered for about 1 hour, until roughly doubled in size.
- Bake at 325°F (165°C) for 16–18 minutes, until the base is lightly golden and the covers have set and cracked open along the scored lines. Let rest on the baking sheet for 3–5 minutes before transferring to a cooling rack.
§ OBSERVED RESULT
The covers crack along the scored lines during baking, the white and brown patterns opening into the shapes pressed by the cutter. The bread underneath is pillowy and slightly sweet, the enriched dough soft enough that pressing a finger into the top leaves an impression that slowly springs back. The vanilla cover is delicate and slightly crumbly; the chocolate cover is marginally denser. Earth specimens selected their flavor without hesitation. I selected one of each for comparison purposes.
The conchas are good.